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West Bengal

Weaving Bengali Traditions: Santipur Saree

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From Dhotis to Dynasties

West Bengal, a state in eastern India, is a culturally rich state with its capital, Kolkata (formerly Calcutta), which was the capital of the British Raj and also an East India Company trading post. West Bengal retains architectural and cultural remnants of its past and one such signature craft is the Santipur sarees that originates from Santipur, West Bengal. This handicraft finds its roots in Bengali folklore and even in the manuscripts depicting the life of Advaita Acharya. Initially, artisans would manufacture dhotis ( a long loincloth worn by Hindu Men) and simple sarees. As the popularity and credibility of the craft grew across India and it received the support of various dynasties, it was put under the spotlight. Santipur sarees were awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2009.

Fabricating History

According to anecdotal historical records, handloom weavers were introduced to this region under the rule of Raja Ganesha, the head of the Ganesha dynasty of Gaur, in the 15th century. What started as a niche endeavour blossomed into a robustly active industry under Nadia Raj, a dynasty of Zamindars (landlords). Darga Das Kastha introduced the barrel dobby, enabling the transition from throw shuttle to fly shuttle pit looms between 1920-1925. Later in the 20th century, Jatindra Nath Lohori introduced a jacquard with a 100-hook capacity to produce a wider variety of Santipur sarees. From employing shuttle pit looms to using jacquard machines, this craft has evolved and adapted to the taste of various ruling classes over the centuries.

Traditionally, artisans employed only cotton and silk as the primary raw materials to manufacture these sarees. Now, twisted cotton, Muga ( a variety of silk), zari (golden threads), silver, and gold are employed to weave the borders. The unique hand-spinning technique using cross-wise yarns (extra weft), in combination with extremely thin fabric, novel designs, and vibrant hues, makes Santipore sarees exceptionally fascinating. 

Diversity in Design

There are numerous exclusive Santipur sarees available. The Nilambari saree is perhaps the most famous and sought-after Santipur saree. With its deep navy blue colour dominating the body of the saree, contrasting borders, and the pallu ( the loose end of the saree) with stripes of varying thicknesses (Sajanshoi), the Nilambari saree emulates the beauty of the night sky. The texture of the saree is remarkably smooth and, hence, has always been  popular among the ruling classes and the aristocrats. Other diverse designs include geometrical, floral, paisley, traditional, abstract patterns, and motifs inspired by temples and history. 


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Journey to the Looms

The Santipur – Fulia region is home to over 125,000 handlooms. Paying a visit to this region is a decision that will pay exponential dividends for saree enthusiasts. As one strolls the streets, one would witness houses on the either side of the road turned into handlooms.  It is an excellent opportunity to interact with the weavers and witness the intricate process behind the manufacturing of each saree. Undoubetly, the beauty of each saree is captivating and hence a must in one’s collection!