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Kerala

Woven Narratives: The Enchanting Legacy of Kasaragod Sarees

Where history threads itself into silk and cotton splendour

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Weaves of simplicity and splendour

Kerala is home to stunning landscapes, glimmering backwaters and vibrant festivals. But this is only the beginning of the long list of wonders that Kerala holds. The state also boasts an extensive tradition of handloom textiles. One such gem among sarees is the Kasaragod saree, named for the district where they originate. Kasaragod's handloom tradition weaves a distinct melody in Kerala's textile symphony. Designed by skilled weavers who display exceptional skill and craftsmanship in creating them, these sarees are a personification of simplicity. Each Kasaragod saree tells its own unique tale making Kasaragod an essential stop when visiting Kerala.

Tracing origins of Kasaragod handlooms

Kasaragod's handlooms hum with a history that stretches back to the 18th century. Threads of migration wove the story of this craft. The Shaliya weavers, like threads themselves, journeyed from the East Karavali coast (of current Karnataka), leaving Tamil Nadu due to whispers of political and social unrest. Another thread, the Padmashaliyas, unfurled from Mysore, settling in present-day Kasaragod. Here, north of the Chandragiri River, Kannada, the language of their ancestors, became the tongue of the looms. In Kasaragod, the weavers are not just artisans, they are a living legacy of their ancestors, draped in the rich fabric of history.

Echoes of vibrancy

Unlike its flamboyant cousins from Balaramapuram, Kuthampally, and Chendamangalam, Kasaragod's sarees sing a simpler song. Their cotton bodies, adorned with stripes of dyed yarns, are canvases of quiet elegance. But don't be fooled by their apparent modesty. Kasaragod's true magic lies in its borders, hand-crafted using Jacquard or Dobby techniques. These intricate edgings transform the saree into a masterpiece, a testament to the weaver's artistry. Woven with high thread counts and vat dyes, Kasaragod sarees are built to last, their colours echoing the vibrancy of the land itself. In recent times, whispers of silk have begun to blend with the cotton, offering a luxurious twist to this timeless tradition. In 2010, the Kasaragod Sarees were granted the Geographical Indications (GI) Tag by the Government of India. 


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Kerala

From Tappets to Kotenchs

A number of things make the Kasaragod sarees unique. Kasaragod boasts combed cotton of exceptional quality, so fine it can be as high as 100s count. In some cases, even art silk joins the symphony. Kasaragod's natural well water is a blessing to the yarns. Soft and pure, it allows vat dyes to work their magic, resulting in vibrant, long-lasting colours. The weavers’ hearts beat green; the vat dyes, renowned for their colourfastness, are used here, and natural materials like firewood fuel the process, minimizing pollution. Even the sizing brushes are crafted with care, using palm bristles that won't harm the delicate threads.

The sarees are woven on sturdy Malabar looms. From intricate borders to delicate buttas (vine design) scattered across the body, Kasaragod sarees seem to perform a dance of designs and patterns. Lattice dobby and jacquard looms become the choreographer, guiding dyed yarns into mesmerizing formations. The Kasaragod border whispers a secret story, featuring the Tappet design, creating stunning extra warp patterns, and the Kotench technique, a local treasure, involves drawing weft from a separate source, creating a distinct and captivating finish.

The saree's grand finale - the pallu - is often pre-dyed in a deep shade. Extra weft designs, woven in vibrant colours, then come alive, further enriching this breath-taking element. When art silk graces the cross border, a special treadle technique creates a captivating rib weave effect, adding another layer of visual intrigue to the Kasaragod saree.

Kasaragod as a souvenir

Coconut palms sway languidly in the salty breeze of Kasaragod, their fronds rustling tales of ancient forts guarding emerald hills. Amidst a rich cultural blend, here Ayurveda too wafts from ancient spas, its healing touch promising rejuvenation, while fiery curries tantalize the taste buds, a symphony of spices celebrating the soul of this unforgettable land.

The spirit of simplicity, nature, sustainability meets the cultural flavours of the land in the most amazing ways through the Kasaragod sarees. So when visiting God’s own country, do take a reminder home in the form of the cool, classic drapes known as the Kasaragod Sarees.