Tracing the Threads of Ikat Weaving

A drapery of history and tradition

Odisha Ikat is an intricate weaving tradition dating back to the 13th century CE in ancient Kalinga. In another narrative, historians suggest that inspiration is taken from the Indonesian weaving culture as the term ‘Ikat’ derives from the Indonesian word ‘mengikat,’which translates as tie or bind. Regardless of how the craft originated, Odia craftsmen elevated it to new heights as they made it their own. At its core lies an intensive, laborious process of tying threads before dyeing them and weaving intricate designs based on nature, mythology, and everyday life that reflect Odisha Ikat's vibrant culture and history.

Odisha ikat, known locally as the 'Bandha of Orissa,' is a unique weaving style not present anywhere else in the country due to its peculiarly charming quirks. The delicate combination of the distinctly embedded curvilinear motifs, skilful patterns, relief texture, and the application of the ikat technique makes these products stand out as captivating art pieces. Bird and animal motifs are the predominant motifs embedded in these weaves. Furthermore, conch shells, fish, Chandankora, Sachipar, and Bolama designs are trademarks of this craft. Since these are single ikat weaves, the designs on the fabric are slightly blurred, which adds another layer of fascination to these fabrics. A unique facet of this craft not found elsewhere is the Calligraphy being crafted on these fabrics,. The weaving style, the raw materials used, and the skill of the craftsmen are beyond measure with the machine looms, that have gained prominence over the previous few years being no match to the brilliance of the hand fabricated ikat pieces.