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Maharashtra

Beyond the Fold: The Allure of Karvath Kati Sarees

Saw-toothed tales from Maharashtra

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Cultural craftsmanship of Maharashtra

The Western Ghats of India is brimming with natural wonders and mysteries. In its northern reaches, they traverse through the state of Maharashtra, a land jam-packed with history, colours and culture. Here, ancient cave temples whisper secrets in flickering lamplight. Majestic forts, their ramparts etched with the battles of bygone eras, stand sentinel on windswept cliffs. The coastlines present the most scrumptious seafood delicacies. On the other side are cities that never sleep, throbbing with a frenetic energy. As you travel inland, the landscape transforms into rolling hills dotted with vineyards and quaint villages. Visit districts of Bhandara, Nagpur, Chandrapur, or Gadcharoli, you will be met with an iconic Maharashtrian or Marathi textile. This is the Karvath Kati Sarees and fabrics - handwoven masterpieces that showcase artistry, and craftsmanship, with a cultural significance that is embedded deep into Maharashtra’s rich heritage.

A three hundred year old tradition

Pauni, a major town in Bhandara district, boasts of a handloom tradition with a long and vibrant history. The 18th century, under the rule of the Chand Kings, saw the town flourish as a center for exquisite cotton handloom fabrics and trade. This legacy continued into the 19th century, with Pauni gaining further recognition for its beautiful silk and tussar creations. Named for its distinctive ‘saw-tooth’ or karvat border, the Karvat Kati saree is a symbol of celebration and marital bliss in Maharashtra's Vidarbha region. Traditionally worn by brides and for auspicious occasions, this saree features the unique saw-toothed pattern not only on the border but also incorporated into the bodice design.

Weaving saw-toothed tales

The Karvath Kati weaving tradition is a beautiful heritage passed down through generations. Just like the intricate patterns on the sarees themselves, the knowledge is meticulously transferred from father to son, ensuring the skills and dedication required of a true Karvath Kathi weaver. These artisans embody a spirit of cooperative effort, working together through each stage of the process. From the initial steps of sorting silk and winding the weft threads onto cones to joining the warp and finally the weaving and design itself, each stage is interdependent and requires the expertise of a master. The Karvath Kati sarees are woven primarily from five types of yarns – the Katia yarn, Ghicha yarn, Balkal/Pedunkal yarn, Jhari yarn and the Mill Spun variety of yarn.

The Karvath Kati weavers communicate through an elaborate local vocabulary for operating the loom. Words like mangtha, pinda, kakda, wajan, phirke, khoot, khilapatti, rool, thoon, are abundantly used, referring to the different parts of the machinery and the weaving processes. The flora and fauna of Vidharbha region inspire the artisans to weave intricate motifs of flowers, animals, and birds. As an ode to the spiritual and cultural connects, patterns depicting mythological figures also find their way on Karvath Kati weaves. 


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All about the Pallus

Apart from the saw-tooth design at the borders of the saree, the designs on the pallus (decorated end of the saree which is hung loose) of Karvath Kati sarees too deserve a special mention. Three types of pallu are especially popular in the region. The Jala pallu is complex, featuring heavy designs. These elegant pallus are hued in the most beautiful combination of colours and can be successfully woven by only the most highly skilled weavers. The Devdi pallu requires medium level of handwork and majorly features temple motifs. While some portions of the pallu are handwoven, others are completed through embroidery. The final Tekri pallu type showcases minimal floral and geometrical designs.

Elegant drapes for all

In 2017, the Government of India granted the Geographical Indications (GI) status to Karvath Kati sarees. An array of shops in Nagpur’s Badkas Chowk, Gandhibagh, and Sitabuldi areas provide the opportunity to visitors for purchase. The Karvath Kati sarees personify the timeless elegance. Maharashtra is a place to immerse oneself in truly varied experiences. Draped in a Karvath Kati saree, traversing through the streets of Vidarbha is the only way to truly understand the ethos of these lands. Visit, Maharashtra and buy a Karvath Kati saree – a symbol of Maharashtra’s history, tradition and artistry.