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Gujarat

The patterned weaves of Patan Patola

Sarees/ Fabrics that last three centuries

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Unravelling the mystique of Patan Patola

Patan, an ancient fortified town founded in 745 AD by the king of the Chavda kingdom, is located in the Patan district of northern Gujarat. This historic town boasts of a remarkable cultural and textile legacy. One outstanding exhibit of this legacy is the Patan Patola. A gorgeous craft created by weavers since generations, the Patan Patola showcases their timeless artistry and meticulous precision. Renowned for its elaborate, lavish designs, vivid hues, and impeccable weaving, the Patan Patola fabric boasts of an interesting history, weaving techniques, and cultural ties to the lands of Gujarat.

The rich history of Patan Patola

Patan Patola can be traced back to the 10th century. Legends surround the mystery of how weavers in Patan originally came to be here. Some say they came from South India, while others trace their lineage to Rajasthan. What is clear however, is that Patola weaving in Patan is the monopoly of a community of weavers known as the Salvis. Patan Patola is believed to be one of India's oldest textile traditions. The weavers pass down their knowledge through generations so as to preserve its rich traditions of Patola weaving.

The most celebrated works of Patan Patola are the attractive, visually heavy, silk sarees. At first glance, Patola fabrics appear to be printed in how seamless its surface appears, but they are far from it! These patterns are woven using the challenging double Ikat technique, where silken threads of the warp and weft are tied and dyed prior to weaving. The mathematical precision with which these threads are placed and woven  determine the unified pattern that will emerge from the interlacing of the threads. No wonder Patan Patola is acclaimed as one of the finest examples of Ikat weaving in the world.

A labour of love

One can imagine the patience, care and skill with which Patan Patola weavers engage in weaving the beautiful silk fabrics. Each thread is individually bound and dyed to produce stunning, reversible designs i.e. be it the front or the back, the cloth displays the same intensity of colour and clarity of design. This process may take months or even years!

Owing to the style of weaving, geometric patterns naturally predominate the eight yards of Patan Patola sarees. Even then, the creatively endowed weavers are able to produce a wide range of plant and zoomorphic patterns. Apart from sarees, Patan Patola weaving can be cherished in the form  . One can observe a changing scene of dazzling patterns in Patan Patola sarees. These include the motifs named Nari Kunjar (elephant), Ratan Chowk (floral motifs in a geometrical pattern), Chhabdi (basket), Chokta (box), Paan (leaf), Phul (flower), Chowkadi (square), Panchphul (five flowers), Laheriya (stripes), Diamond, Star, Butta (vines) etc.

Vegetal dyes from turmeric, indigo, lac, and other natural sources are utilised in dyeing the fabrics in rich hues of vermillion, yellow, orange, pink, green, blue, purple, white and black. Parrots, women, plants, trellis and combination of other motifs (as mentioned above) are used to adorn the body, border and pallu of the Patan Patola sarees.


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Gujarat

A cultural gem

The Patan Patola textiles are a testament of Gujarat’s rich and colourful history. One look at the fabrics, and one can immediately understand the depths of love, smiles and transformative experiences this land has to offer. The effervescent personalities of the people have been artfully captured in the colours of the Patan Patola. Used in religious ceremonies and at auspicious occasions, the Patan Patola is custom made for some patrons as per their religion’s mandates. These fine textiles are also highly prized by collectors and can be bought in shops at the Old Ganj Bazaar and Museum Rani Ki Vav Road.

One must not miss out on an opportunity to visit Patan – it is a microcosm which has on display Gujarat’s outstanding artistic and cultural diversity. It is a chance to witness the Patola art form first-hand and buy for yourself an unforgettable keepsake. Exploring Patan Patola reveals much about Gujarat’s enchanting tradition and craftsmanship. So be sure to include this city as part of your itinerary for witnessing Patola making first-hand and add a saree or pocket-square, handkerchief and tablecloth to your collection.