Welcome to the new Incredible India Digital Portal! While we are continuously updating and improving the site, we would love to hear your suggestions for features or content you'd like to see. Please share your feedback at info.mot@gov.in.

Hi, User name

My profile

Logout

Hi, User name

My profile

Logout

placeholder-attr-hero.jpg

Odisha

Fascinating Fabrics: Berhampur Phoda Kumbha Saree & Joda

placeholder-attr-hero.jpg
map

Stripes of Tradition

Berhampur, located approximately 180 kilometres from Bhubaneswar, Odisha, is home to a world-renowned silk-weaving tradition. Often cited as the silk city of India, Berhampur offers exquisite fabrics with a unique charm and appeal to them. Fascinatingly, the face and the rear of these sarees are alike, allowing the wearer to put on the garment with either side as the face. The Phoda Kumbha motifs (the temple stripes embedded in the design) are the trademarks of this craft and symbolic of the tradition. The Berhampur Phoda Kumbha Saree and Joda craft was awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2012.

Rooted in Royalty

The historical records of this craft paint an intriguing picture. The origin of this unique craftwork dates back to the 14th century AD and is rooted in royalty. During this time, the Mohuri kings are believed to have introduced the craft of silk weaving and silk trade to Berhampur. In the early days, exclusive pieces embedded with zari work were crafted especially for the Rajas (kings) and their kith and kin. Also, beautiful patterns were weaved for the Dewans (Courtiers), the affluent members of the Kingdom with the third category being crafted for the money lenders. A clear hierarchy was followed in raw material, patterns, weaving and crafting of pieces based on the position in the kingdom with the most exquisite pieces reserved for the royalty.

A glimpse into heritage

Berhampuri Patta Sarees are stunning examples of traditional handloom weaving, featuring vibrant colors and intricate designs. A unique feature of these exquisite textiles is their long pallu ( spread end of the saree) and‘Phoda Kumbha’ design: fish and tortoise motifs that are imprinted through the tie-dyeing technique. This involves tying certain portions of fabric with thread to prevent dye penetration and creating stunning patterns resembling nature, temple architecture, or cultural elements. Intriguingly, two weavers are required to operate the throw shuttle pit loom to weave the Phoda Kumbha design onto a saree, a marquee product of the craft.  A Berhampur Patta Saree truly showcases their dedication, taking weeks or even months for each piece to finish.

According to anecdotal records, aristocrats from neighbouring states also preferred to procure silk from Berhampur due to the superior quality of the raw material. The silk from Berhampur has always been considered unique. It was used on special occasions such as marriages by aristocrats and their families. Patta (silk) originating in this region is ceremonial to the Brahmin and Hindu communities. These sarees are made entirely of pure silk in both weft and wrap, giving them a unique appeal.

in.gov.incredibleindia.core.models.impl.ImageUtilModelImpl@451b19b0

More information

Odisha

You may enjoy

jagannath-temple-puri-odisha-tri-side
Trip
Knocking the doors of spirituality and culture in Odisha

The allure of Berhampur Patta Joda

Complementing the saree is the Berhampur Patta Joda, a traditional Odia bridal accessory. These are ornate, colorful bangles that women wear during weddings and other special occasions. Crafted using the same tie-dyeing technique as the sarees, the Berhampur Patta Joda adds a touch of elegance and tradition to the bridal ensemble. These bangles come in various sizes and are often customized to match the saree's design, creating a harmonious and striking look.

Sarees to Stoles

Sarees are the most popular products available for purchase. One can purchase a variety of sarees in different variations, such as in colours like off-white, grey, and multicolour, or designs such as the Pasapali theme. For those who want something more; Indian attires such as jodas, dhotis, chaddars (wraps), and stoles are available for sale. Locals regularly adorn these garments during traditional ceremonies, instilling these products into the region's cultural fabric.

A Testament to Odisha's Rich Cultural Heritage

Berhampuri Patta Saree and Joda are icons of Odisha textile craftsmanship, embodying not only garments but also the traditions and cultural identity of this state. By exploring these art forms, tourists can experience the timeless elegance and artistry that make Berhampur such an artistic hot-bed in Odisha.

Make sure you explore local markets and handloom stores as part of your experience. If so, explore local markets and handloom stores as a must when visiting Berhampur, especially handloom stores where skilled artisans create stunning handwoven creations you can buy as souvenirs or gifts! Additionally, various craft villages in Ganjam District too provide immersive experiences for tourists interested in Berhampur Patta Textile Art and an insight in to the rich culture artistic traditions of Odisha!