What To See
The majestic Shaniwar Wada, constructed on the right bank of the Mutha River by Peshwa ruler Bajirao I, was renowned for its opulence. Despite its tales of grandeur, a devastating fire in 1828 left the once-imposing complex in ruins. Today, only remnants such as the fortified walls and the Dilli Darwaza (Delhi Gate), facing the direction of Delhi, stand as a testament to its former glory. Roaming amidst the gardens within the dilapidated surroundings, we endeavored to envision the grandeur that once symbolized Peshwa power. Beyond the historical splendor lies a narrative of betrayal, contributing to the downfall of the formidable Peshwas. Following the demise of Bajirao I's son, Balaji Bajirao, the mantle passed to his youngest son, Narayanrao. Tragically, within a year of ascending the throne, Narayanrao fell victim to a conspiracy devised by his envious uncle and aunt. The corridors of Shaniwar Wada witnessed the pursuit and brutal assassination of Narayanrao. Legend has it that even today, on a full moon night, echoes of his desperate cries for help linger in the air.
A short stroll from Shaniwar Wada brings you to the reconstructed Lal Mahal, the official residence of Chhatrapati Shivaji in the city. This is where Shivaji spent his childhood and married his first wife, Maharani Saibai. However, in 1645, Shivaji moved to Torna Fort on the outskirts of Pune, and Lal Mahal gradually fell into ruin.
Allocate some time to the Kasba Ganpati temple that connects you intimately with Pune's history. Initially constructed by Shivaji's mother, Jijabai, beside their residence, the temple was designed to enshrine a Ganesha idol discovered in Pune. Recognized as the "gramadevta" or guardian deity of the city, the Kasba Ganpati idol remains a resilient belief in ancient Pune, enduring the test of time.
Proceed to the magnificent Vishrambaug Wada. Amidst the surrounding commotion, the serene red facade stands out, featuring an ornate balcony overlooking the road and intricately carved pillars, each reportedly crafted from a single teak tree. Constructed in the early 1800s by Peshwa Bajirao II as his residence, he inhabited the wada until his arrest by the British. Presently, the wada serves as a venue for an exhibition on Pune's history across the centuries, hosts a handicraft shop managed by a local NGO, and accommodates a post office. The mansion's finely detailed wooden pillars and window frames provide a glimpse into its glorious past.
Aga Khan Palace. In 1892, Sultan Muhammad Shah Aga Khan III commissioned the building, set in a 19-acre plot, to generate employment in a city then struck by famine. The building played a vital role in Indias freedom struggle, as it was here that Mahatma Gandhi, his wife Kasturba Gandhi, his secretary Mahadev Desai, and Sarojini Naidu were imprisoned. The rooms on the ground floor display paintings and rare photographs depicting the life of Gandhi. Also on display are some of his personal belongings like letters, clothes, utensils, and books. Walk across the well-maintained gardens to the side of the building to see the samadhis of Kasturba Gandhi and Mahadev Desai, both of whom died here in captivity.
Day Trips
Get out of Pune for the day and learn more about local history, culture, and nature on this private day tour. Admire the views from Khadakwasla Dam, learn about the Maratha dynasty at Sinhagad Fort, and go birdwatching at Panshet Dam. Khadakwasla Dam, built across the Mutha River, is situated near Khadakwasla village in Pune district of Maharashtra. This is among the most visited tourist spots around Pune especially during the monsoons. As a renowned tourist destination in the state, Sinhagad fort annually attracts hordes of trekkers and families. The fort's ruins eloquently depict its illustrious history as a key bastion of the legendary Maratha ruler, Shivaji. Located about 30 km from Pune and formerly named Kondana, the fort offers panoramic views of the surrounding areas. It features a bust of Tanaji Malusare, commemorating his brave resistance against the Mughals. Nestled in the lap of the Sahyadri mountain ranges, Panshet Dam is enveloped by verdant hills adorned with cascading waterfalls. A renowned picnic destination near Pune, it lures visitors from Mumbai with its water sports and trekking options.
Where To Eat
Koregaon Park, renowned for the iconic German Bakery and the Osho Ashram, epitomizes Pune's contemporary vibe. Nestled amid grand bungalows and parks, this neighborhood boasts some of the city's finest boutiques, restaurants, and bars. Arthurs Theme, celebrated for its delightful European cuisine, can be found at No. 2, Vrindavan Apts, Lane No. 6 (contact: 020-26152710). For scrumptious handmade pastas, head to the all-vegetarian Italian eatery, Darios, located on Lane 1, North Main Road (contact: 020-26053796; www.darios.in). Prem's restaurant in Koregaon Park, a culinary icon since 1990, has charmed taste buds for over three decades. Offering a diverse menu ranging from Continental to Chinese and Indian cuisine, Prem's ensures a delightful dining experience. For Pan-Asian food, head to Malaka Spice (Lane 5, North Main Road, Koregaon Park; 020-26156293; which is a restaurant and bar coupled with an art gallery.
Embracing the trend of organic dining, ABC Farms' restaurants, established in the early 1990s, showcase farm-to-table produce sourced from their outskirts farm (Survey No. 35/36; contact: 020-26880555; abcfarms.com).
Vaishali is worth a visit at any time of day. 1218/1, FC Road; 020-25531244. Getting a table here is a matter of great patience and effort. Try their wafer-thin sada dosas, and crisp-but-soft sabudana vadas, and wash it all down with some strong filter coffee served in tall glasses. Bedekars in Narayan Peth is by far the best known misal. What started out as a small tea stall serving snacks but became popular as a misal after which they haven’t looked back. In 1967, Sharadrao Kondhalkar opened a small ice cream shop at Sadashiv Peth, naming it after his daughter Sujata. Starting with eggless flavors, it evolved into Sujata Mastani, offering over 30 mastani (thick mango milkshake topped with pieces of cut fruit, dry fruit and whipped cream) flavors and other sweet treats, still run by the Kondhalkar family. The Maharashtrian thali at Hotel Shreyas is authentic, and popular with locals, especially during Ganapati. Ukadiche modaks or steamed modaks are available year-round.
Kayani Bakery on East Street is an old-time Pune institution and a fantastic place to stock up on food souvenirs like the melt-in-your-mouth, buttery Shrewsbury biscuits. Other favourites are khari nan khatai, and a variety of cakes. Go early as everything sells out fast (6, Dr. Koyali Road, East Street; 020-26360517; Mon-Sat 7.30 a.m.-1 p.m. and 3.30-8 p.m.)
Operated by the fourth-generation Dorabjee Sorabjee Chindy family, Dorabjee & Sons Restaurant in Camp stands as one of Camp's oldest Parsi establishments. Culinary traditions dating back to 1878 remain largely unchanged. Highlights include the flavorful dum biryani, savory mutton kheema, hearty mutton paya, and the delectable chicken dhansak paired with brown rice.
Nestled in a century-old heritage building in Camp with lofty wooden ceilings, arched multi-colored glass windows, and a charming stairway, Marz-O-Rin is famous for its delightful yet simple menu. Offerings comprise chutney sandwiches, chicken sandwiches, cutlets, rich plum cake, chocolate fudge, coffee, Shrewsbury biscuits, and mango thick shake.
Pune, with its amalgamation of history, culture, and gastronomy, provides a travel experience like no other. Whether you're a history buff, a food enthusiast, or someone in search of modern adventures, Pune has something to offer. This travel and food guide merely scratches the surface of what this dynamic city has in store, inviting you to explore and create your own Pune story. So, pack your bags and embark on a journey to discover the flavors and tales that make Pune a true gem in the heart of Maharashtra.
