Tughlaqabad Fort

The curse of a saint

As the colossal Tughlaqabad Fort rose from the ground, a fascinating story unfolded nearby. Sufi saint Nizamuddin Auliya, revered for his wisdom and piety, was also engaged in a construction project – a stepwell at his residence. Legend has it that Tughlaqabad's ambitious scale left the city depleted of labourers, making it difficult for Nizamuddin to find workers for his own project.

Some tales claim that labourers toiled on the fort during the day and secretly continued building the stepwell at night. When Tughlaq discovered this alleged defiance, he was enraged. In a fit of fury, he is said to have banned the supply of oil to the stepwell site, effectively halting nighttime work. Nizamuddin Auliya, known for his mystical powers, is believed to have responded in kind. The legend goes that he miraculously transformed the water in his well into oil, ensuring his project continued. Furthermore, he is said to have placed a curse upon Tughlaqabad, uttering the words "Ya rahe ujjar ya base gujjar" – a prophecy foretelling the city's desolation or occupation by nomadic herders.

One more popular legend adds another layer of intrigue. While Tughlaq was away in Bengal, he reportedly learned of the labourers' continued work for Nizamuddin. Furious, he vowed to punish the saint upon his return. In a chilling twist of fate, some accounts suggest that as Tughlaq journeyed back to Delhi, he died under a collapsing pavilion built in his honour. The saint's prophetic words, "Hunuz Dilli dur ast" (Delhi is still far off), took on an eerie meaning, leaving many to believe his curse had come true.

Whether these legends hold historical truth or are embellished tales, they add to the mystique of Tughlaqabad, a city forever marked by its ambitious beginnings and its unfinished state.

A city frozen in time

Tughlaqabad may be a city forever unfinished, but its ruins offer a captivating glimpse into the past. Massive stone walls, a hallmark of Tughlaq dynasty architecture, snake around the city's uneven terrain. Circular watchtowers, some reaching two stories tall, further bolstered the city's defences. Tughlaqabad boasted an impressive 52 gates, though only 13 remain standing today. These gates provided controlled access to the city, while seven strategically placed rainwater tanks ensured a steady water supply. Tughlaqabad can be roughly divided into three sections. The sprawling main city area housed residents in grid-plan neighbourhoods situated between the gates. At the heart stood the citadel, a half-hexagonal fort crowned by the Burj-Mandal tower. Traces of grand halls and a mysterious underground passage hint at the structures that once stood here. Finally, the adjacent palace area likely held the royal residences, though time has taken its toll.

A short distance away lies a red sandstone mausoleum believed to have been built during Tughlaq's reign, where the final resting places of Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq, his wife, and his successor, Mohammad bin Tughlaq, can be found.