From kerchiefs to sarees
The oldest centre of weaving of Pochampally Ikat has been traced back to 19th century to the town of Chirala, a settlement situated on the rail route between Vijayawada and Chennai. The town was famous for its production of cotton 'Telia Rumals' (kerchiefs) with 'Chowkra' (diamond within a square) patterns that were woven in pairs. These kerchiefs were characterised by bold, geometrical motifs, in hues of rich red, black and white offset by wide single coloured borders. This was used by rural folks and fishermen, and utilised by cow-herders as loincloths, lungis or turbans. By the 1930's the Pochampally fabrics found their way in large numbers to Burma, the Middle East and East Africa where they became popular as Asia Rumals. Pochampally Ikat takes its name from the Malay-Indonesian word "mengikat", meaning to bind, knot or wind around – a word that perfectly encapsulates the fabrics’ genesis. In Andhra Pradesh, the textile also goes by the name Paagadu Bandhu and Chitki.
A spectrum of colours
Pochampally Ikat stands out from its competition with its vibrant spectrum of colours and the unique 'chowkra' design - a diamond within a square - or its derivatives, blended into diffused edges. Ikat sarees commonly feature either vibrant reds and oranges or soothing blues and greens, often embellished with intricate geometric and floral motifs. This aesthetic embodies the harmonious combination of South-Indian and Telugu cultural influences.
The Pochampally Ikat products are handcrafted to perfection in a sequential method of production which involves tying (or wrapping) and dyeing section of bundled yarn with a predetermined colour scheme prior to weaving. The dye thus penetrates into the exposed section, while the tied section remains undyed. The Pochampally Ikat takes one of the three basic forms - Single Ikat, where either warp or weft threads are tied and dyed prior to weaving; Double Ikat, where both warp and weft threads are dyed with such amazing precision that when woven, they mesh at exact points to reveal a completed motif; and the Combined Ikat, where dyed warps and weft thread co-exist in different parts of the fabric, overlapping occasionally.
