A Traditional Textile of the Lushais
Pawndum, a traditional textile, woven on the loin loom (Puanbu), is worn by the men and women of the Lushais (Mizos). It is a textile that is made of two loom widths and is characterized by bold red and grey stripes against a black background. While the base weft is made of black yarn, the bold warp stripes use dyed red cotton, obtained from barks of different plants. The Pawndum is traditionally used by girls as ‘Zawlpuan’ i.e. a special dowry in marriage. A young Mizo woman is required to weave Pawndum and carry it along with her to her new home when she gets married. The Pawndum is usually wrapped around the waist like a skirt and is worn by women both casually as well as on special occasions. It is a fabric that holds a deep cultural significance for the Lushais. There is a custom of wearing the Pawndum in death and mourning too and is sometimes used by mourners to cover a dead body when taking it to the graveyard.
A Cultural Marvel
A symbol of the cultural identity and craftsmanship of the Mizo people, the Pawndum holds significant cultural value in the region. If a bride fails to carry a Pawndum to her new home, it is considered her prime duty to weave one soon after going to her in-law’s place. In earlier times, young men used Pawndum as a night cover when they stayed in the men’s dormitory called ‘Zawlbuk’, and also wore it while performing ‘Khuallam’, a popular traditional dance form of Mizoram. Pawndum is one of the few handicraft items of Mizoram with Geographical Indication (GI) tag from Government of India.