A Traverse Pattern of Black Stripes
A popular traditional cloth of the Mizo people, Ngotekherh is a delicately sewn fabric woven out of a loin loom. Usually made with a combination of black and white yarns, it is usually draped around the waist by the Mizo women. A simple yet striking textile, the Ngotekherh has stripes running vertically along the length of the Puan (cloth), often appearing as if dividing the shawl in parts. The original Ngotekherh was rectangular in shape, with two black stripes of three to four inches, each running in traverse direction at a distance of about one- third of the whole length, from both edges of the Puan. In fact, a characteristic feature of this particular type of Puan (cloth) is black stripes on a white background. Two deep black borders, about four to five inches in width, run along the two edges lengthwise. Adjoining these thick borders, thin black stripes are sometimes woven at equidistance, numbering two to six, depending on individual preferences. A number of small perfect squares, known as Mangpuantial, are created in the process. Besides these, quite a few other stripes of similar breadth are woven throughout the surface lengthwise between the two borders. The distinctive feature of Ngotekherh is that the white weft is almost completely hidden by the black warp where it intersects. The weaving of Ngotekherh requires great expertise.
A Heritage Craft of the Mizos
Textiles from Mizoram, including Ngotekherh, are highly valued both for their craftsmanship as well as their cultural significance. Highly prized by the Mizo women, these rectangular pieces of fabrics are a reflection of the rich cultural heritage of Mizoram. Receiving its Geographical Indication (GI) tag is a step towards recognizing and preserving this textile craft.