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Mizoram

Ngotekherh: A Delicately Woven Shawl

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A Traditional Textile from an Enchanting Land

Mizoram, nestled in the northeastern region of India, is a land of mesmerizing beauty, stunning landscapes and a rich cultural heritage. With its rolling hills, cascading waterfalls, and vibrant traditions, this ‘Land of Mizos’ offers tourists a unique and enchanting experience. Renowned for its diverse flora and fauna, Mizoram is a melting pot of traditions, customs, festivals and crafts. Its rich cultural heritage is reflected in its music, dance and handicrafts. Ngotekherh is one such traditional textile craft that is specific to the Mizo community of Mizoram. Initially called as Puanhruih, with ‘Puan’ meaning cloth and ‘hruih’ meaning transverse stripes on cloth in the Mizo language, Ngotekherh is a culturally significant textile of the Mizo community.

A Traverse Pattern of Black Stripes

A popular traditional cloth of the Mizo people, Ngotekherh is a delicately sewn fabric woven out of a loin loom. Usually made with a combination of black and white yarns, it is usually draped around the waist by the Mizo women. A simple yet striking textile, the Ngotekherh has stripes running vertically along the length of the Puan (cloth), often appearing as if dividing the shawl in parts. The original Ngotekherh was rectangular in shape, with two black stripes of three to four inches, each running in traverse direction at a distance of about one- third of the whole length, from both edges of the Puan. In fact, a characteristic feature of this particular type of Puan (cloth) is black stripes on a white background. Two deep black borders, about four to five inches in width, run along the two edges lengthwise. Adjoining these thick borders, thin black stripes are sometimes woven at equidistance, numbering two to six, depending on individual preferences. A number of small perfect squares, known as Mangpuantial, are created in the process. Besides these, quite a few other stripes of similar breadth are woven throughout the surface lengthwise between the two borders. The distinctive feature of Ngotekherh is that the white weft is almost completely hidden by the black warp where it intersects. The weaving of Ngotekherh requires great expertise.

A Heritage Craft of the Mizos

Textiles from Mizoram, including Ngotekherh, are highly valued both for their craftsmanship as well as their cultural significance. Highly prized by the Mizo women, these rectangular pieces of fabrics are a reflection of the rich cultural heritage of Mizoram. Receiving its Geographical Indication (GI) tag is a step towards recognizing and preserving this textile craft.


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Mizoram

A Timeless Souvenir

As you explore the pristine lands of Mizoram, do not miss the opportunity to scout the local markets for these traditional textiles. A traditional garment of the Mizo women, the Ngotekherh can make for a unique addition to your eclectic wardrobe. An inherent part of the artistic heritage of Mizoram, the Ngotekherh textile make for excellent souvenirs and gifts. So, the next time you visit the beautiful highlands of Mizoram, remember to bring back a memoir of its unique culture with you.