A glimpse of Ilkal's legacy
While most believe that the Ilkal weaving began as far back as in 8th century AD, the earliest official record for the same is the Gazetteer of the Bombay Presidency published in 1884, stating that 684 looms already existed back in 1883. Unlike most sarees, the Ilkal doesn't play by the usual rules. The body and the majestic pallav are intricately intertwined using a technique called Tope Teni, a secret language spoken only on Ilkal looms.
This special knotting method ensures each saree is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece, woven from scratch, not pre-made sections. These classic creations are revered for their special design, vivid hues, particularly red, and traditional temple borders featuring intricate embroidery and motifs.
The weaving process
The border designs of Ilkal sarees are primarily of three types – the Gomi, popularly known as Ilkal dadi; Paraspet which is further divided into Chikki and Dodd Paras, and Gaadi. Ilkal sarees are a captivating interplay of vibrant colors and intricate designs. The grand finale, the pallav, typically shines in red silk, adorned with white patterns that evoke temple towers in colours such as pomegranate red, peacock green, indigo, mustard, and parrot green. The body of the saree offers a beautiful contrast with stripes, rectangles, squares, or even a touch of elegant plainness – the choice lies with the wearer. But the story doesn't end there. Traditionally, some Ilkal sarees are embellished with Kasuti embroidery, featuring motifs like palanquins, elephants, and lotuses. These intricate patterns add a layer of storytelling to the already captivating Ilkal saree.
While the Ilkal saree boasts a variety of designs, its true magic lies in the Tope Teni technique. Unlike most sarees, the body and the pallav aren't simply sewn together. Here, they're intricately interlocked using loops, creating a unique temple-like structure. Three shuttles dance across the loom, weaving two contrasting colours and a mesmerizing central design called Kyadgi. This isn't a one-man show. The weaver relies on two skilled assistants for the preparatory work, ensuring each Ilkal saree is a unique masterpiece. The Tope Teni technique is what truly sets the Ilkal apart, making it a symbol of artistry and tradition. In 2006, these special sarees were granted the Geographical Indications (GI) tag.
