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Jammu and Kashmir

The rich tones of warm elegance: Kani Shawls

A tale of delicate yet elaborate weaves

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Textiles & Handloom

The breathtakingly beautiful valleys of Jammu and Kashmir need no introduction. The snowy peaks, lush valleys, clear river waters and endless manifestations of natural beauty have earned the region its rightful salutation - heaven on earth. The northern gem of India is also an oasis of traditional arts and crafts. One such treasures from Jammu and Kashmir is the Kani Shawl, a handwoven textile, long cherished as part of Kashmiri heritage and tradition. With its highly intricate designs of floral motifs in a range of elegant tones, the Kani Shawl has not only provided warmth to Kashmiris in the cold Himalayan winters but has warmed the hearts of millions around the globe.

A labour of love

Mentions of Kani Shawl has been found in poetic works of Kashmiri scholar Kshemendra (in the books Desopadera and Narmemala) who lived between years 990 and 1065 AD. The origin of Kani Shawl thus can be traced back to the 11th century from where the craft evolved for 400 years by absorbing Indian aesthetics and influences. An 11th century wall painting at the Alchi Monastry, Ladakh also depicts finely woven Kani Shawls.

Handwoven out of woollen yarn with great skill and patience, creating the beautiful Kani Shawls in its gorgeous patterns is indeed a labour of love. The shawl gets its name from the use of a number of Kanis or Tujlis in place of the typical shuttle for the weft yarns. These Kanis are small, eyeless wooden spokes or sticks with coloured yarns. Kani shawls are woven in the ‘Twill Tapestry Weave’ with the precise interlocking of Kani and warp yarns that have been dyed in a variety of colours. This is a traditional method which the artisans follow with the help of written instructions in the form of a Talim (literally meaning teaching or knowledge). Presently, Kani is being woven by around 40,000 artisans in the district of Srinagar and parts of Anantnag, Budgam, Pulwama and Baramulla.

A kaleidoscope of colours and patterns

Kani shawls are recognisable from their use of typical motifs such as the elongated almond buti with a bent tip (also known as teardrop motif), Kairi (mango) and the Paisley (elongated cone) which became popular during Mughal rule. These motifs are a coming together of Mediterranean, Indian and European aesthetic sensibilities.

Common types of Kani Shawl include the Hashiadaar (narrow running borders on all four sides), Palladaar (intricate pattern only on the two ends of the shawl along with narrow borders), Butidaar (small or large 'buti' used repetitively), Khat-e-rass (various striped patterns with almond leaf and flower motifs), Jamawar or Purmattan (intricate patterns and motifs that cover the entire shawl), Chand-daar (square or rectangular shawls with a central medallion and four quarter medallions on four corners, also called the moon shawl).

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The rich heritage of Kani

Kani Shawls are treasured for their top notch quality and beauty. They are made of delicate, fine woolen yarn that is spun out of fleece by hand spinning process. This fleece is obtained from the undergrowth of the mountain goat “Capra Hiracus” and is as fine as 12-16 microns. Kani Shawls are hand dyed, their elaborate designs are hand-woven. Soft to the touch, these shawls protect the natives from extreme cold during harsh winters. For its unique Kashmiri identity and local production, these fine shawls were granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag by the Indian Government in 2008.

Kani Shawls are easily available in the many shopping stores across the markets of Srinagar. These traditional shawls are stunning and can be paired with a number of garments to flaunt a chic look. The rich tradition of Kani is one that can only be felt by being enveloped in its warm folds. A tale of tradition, culture and craftsmanship, Kani Shawls are a must have for any ethnic closet!