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Jammu and Kashmir

Feast for the Senses in Gulmarg: The Complete Guide to Wazwan

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Nestled amidst the picturesque Himalayan landscape, Gulmarg is not only a haven for skiing enthusiasts but also a gastronomic delight for food connoisseurs. The charming town in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir boasts a diverse culinary scene that caters to a variety of tastes. From traditional Kashmiri cuisine to international delights, Gulmarg offers a unique dining experience. When you're in Gulmarg or any other part of Kashmir, there's one culinary experience you shouldn't miss – Wazwan. This multi-course Kashmiri meal, traditionally crafted for weddings and festive celebrations, is a culinary delight that deserves your exploration.

The Kashmiri Wazwan, often described as a '36-dish multi-course meal,' is not merely a culinary extravaganza meant to satiate hunger; it is an elaborate symphony of flavors designed to indulge diners in an out-of-this-world experience. The term 'Wazwan' itself carries a profound meaning, where 'Waza' translates to cook and 'Wan' to shop. Thus, 'Wazwan' can be interpreted as the art of setting up a feast, a culinary spectacle that unfolds in the host's courtyard, weaving together tradition, culture, and gastronomy in a grand celebration.

There was a time when Kashmir was the hub of the Silk Route, linking Asia to the Mediterranean. Traversed by silk merchants conducting their trade, Kashmir became a melting pot of cultural influences, particularly from Persian and Russian culinary traditions. In the year 1398, during Taimoor's invasion of Hindustan, he brought skilled cooks (Waza) from Samarkand in Uzbekistan. These Wazas seamlessly blended techniques from Turkish, Afghan, and Persian cuisines, giving rise to the unique and flavorful tapestry of Kashmiri cuisine.

The Wazwan is presented on a grand circular platter, traditionally referred to as a Traem. Positioned atop a pristine white sheet, this substantial dish is meant to be enjoyed collectively, with four individuals sharing it. The act of dining together from the same plate is not merely a culinary tradition; it holds deep cultural significance, symbolizing the bond of love and togetherness.

Here are some dishes that constitute an essential part of the Kashmiri Wazwan:

Methi Maaz: A delectable dish featuring minced sheep tripe curry, Methi Maaz is infused with the aromatic essence of fenugreek (methi), providing a unique and flavorful experience.

Daniwal Korma: Daniwal Korma is a mutton korma that tantalizes the taste buds with the fusion of coriander and ghee. The richness of mutton combined with the aromatic coriander and the luxurious addition of ghee creates a delightful and indulgent gravy.

Sabz Haakh: A vital inclusion in Wazwan, Sabz Haakh consists of spinach-like leafy greens cooked in mustard oil with a touch of chili. This dish is considered indispensable, adding a distinct flavor without which Wazwan feels incomplete.

Rogan Josh: Rogan Josh features shoulder meat cooked in a blend of Praan paste, mawal flower essence, curd, and Kashmiri mirchi diluted essence. The name derives from "rogan," meaning fat, and "josh," meaning to cook on high heat, capturing the essence of this rich and spiced delicacy.

Goshtaba:

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Jammu and Kashmir

Goshtaba is a unique preparation featuring meatballs with a cheesecake-like texture, minced fat, and dipped in mutton broth. The gravy is crafted with curd, cardamom, dry ginger, and fennel, offering a luscious and savory experience.

Marchwagun Korma: Known for its fiery heat, Marchwagun Korma is a Kashmiri chili korma that uses three-quarters of the chilies found in the entire Wazwan. This fiery dish adds a bold and spicy kick to the culinary spread.

Doon Chetin: A Kashmiri staple that captivates the palate, Doon Chetin is a walnut chutney flavored with yogurt and chilies. Its rich and nutty taste complements the diverse flavors of the Wazwan.

Masheid Al Chetin: This chutney, made from pumpkin, dates, cardamoms, dried nuts, and honey, is crafted to provide relief to the taste buds with a unique blend of sweetness and richness.

Kashmiri Pulao: A fragrant delight, Kashmiri Pulao consists of basmati rice cooked in milk and ghee, infused with saffron, and adorned with separately roasted dry fruits and kishmish in ghee.

Tabakh Maaz: Glossy ribs, cooked in ghee and simmered in yogurt until dry, create the succulent delicacy known as Tabakh Maaz, showcasing the mastery of Kashmiri culinary techniques.

Aab Gosht: A mildly flavored dish, Aab Gosht features sheep ribs cooked in a creamy milk gravy with hints of cardamom and saffron, providing a delicate and delightful taste.

Lahabi Kabab: Also known as "moche kabab," this Wazwan favorite takes the form of a diamond-shaped kabab made from minced lamb meat, offering a visually appealing and flavorful addition to the feast.

Waza Palak: Waza Palak presents a delightful combination of green spinach and small mutton balls known as paliki riste

Rista:

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Rista is a culinary masterpiece comprising spongy and tender mutton meatballs, expertly cooked in traditional Kashmiri spices. Simmered in a rich, red, and spicy gravy, Rista is a treat for the senses, boasting a taste and aroma that resonate with the essence of Kashmiri cuisine.

Ruangan Chaman: In the Kashmiri culinary lexicon, paneer (cottage cheese) is known as chaman. Ruangan Chaman showcases cubes of paneer tossed into a luscious gravy made from tomatoes and milk.

Gushtaba:

The Gushtaba, a delectable finale to the main course in Wazwan, features meatballs immersed in a luscious and thick yogurt gravy. This savory preparation marks the transition from the main course to the sweet symphony of desserts.

Modur Pulao: While pulao in other parts of India leans towards spicy and savory notes, Kashmiri Modur Pulao stands out with its sweet undertones. Enriched with an abundance of saffron, cinnamon, milk, and ghee, this pulao is a symphony of sweet and aromatic flavors. The final touch includes a garnish of assorted dry fruits, including raisins, walnuts, cashews, and almonds, elevating the dish to a delightful culinary experience.

Best Places To Have Wazwan in Gulmarg and Srinagar
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Nestled within The Khyber Himalayan Resort and Spa in Gulmarg, Cloves Restaurant stands as a splendid establishment designed to delight guests with a diverse array of delicacies crafted from authentic ingredients, each resonating with the essence of Kashmir. Here you can experience the culinary masterpiece of Wazwan, a multi-course feast from Kashmir, meticulously prepared with precision. The restaurant boasts a classic Victorian-style ambiance, complete with cozy dark wood chairs and tables, ensuring that guests have a delightful and enjoyable dining experience.

If you're making your way back to Srinagar from Gulmarg, consider indulging in the exquisite Wazwan at Ahdoos, a renowned restaurant with a rich legacy stretching across decades. Alternatively, experience the royal ambiance of Mughal Darbar, where the setting itself sets the tone for the culinary delights (including Wazwan) awaiting you. For those seeking a more upscale setting, The Chinar at The LaLit Grand Palace is an excellent choice. Despite being a multi-cuisine restaurant, The Chinar's Wazwan preparations steal the spotlight, earning accolades even from the locals who find themselves returning for more.

The classic tale of royal Kashmiri Wazwan is a narrative that transcends time, weaving together history, culture, and gastronomy. This culinary masterpiece continues to captivate the senses, offering a glimpse into the opulent heritage of Kashmir and remains a symbol of Kashmiri identity, a feast fit for kings, and a testament to the enduring legacy of Kashmiri cuisine.