Tawlhlohpuan’s Legacy
Legend goes that before warriors went out to fight in a war, they draped themselves in Tawlhlohpuan. The Mizo men wearing this Puan (cloth) were expected to stand ground and never retreat during a fight. In one Mizo folktale, a great warrior named Darhnawka of Hualngo clan requested his wife to weave him a special cloth that was big enough to wrap his body if he died during a hunt or war. When Darhnawka wore the cloth, it meant that he was prepared to lay down his life and to never retreat. Based on these legends the highest award offered for bravery in the Mizo society, was the draping of the Tawlhlohpuan. The weaving of Tawlhlohpuan requires a lot of time as compared to the other Puans. The process involves weaving two pieces of cloth, which are then sewn together by ‘Puanpuizung Thui’ stitches using red and white threads alternatively. The edges of the Puan are then stitched with ‘Bahrangulzem’ stitches. For the ground fabric, undyed cotton yarn is used for the warp and the indigo dyed black cotton is used in the weft. The weft faced plain weave helps form patterns over the solid black or blue base warp layer. The colors are chosen keeping in sync with the background and foreground of the shawl, in order to ensure a visual and textual harmony. A combination of red with white and shades of blue with black are most commonly used for dyeing the Tawlhlohpuan.
Threads of Tradition
The Tawlhlohpuan holds great significance in the artistic and cultural legacy of Mizoram. While earlier worn by men as a mark of chivalry, in due course of time it began to be used by ladies and the affluent during festive occasions and the original significance attached to this cloth gradually began to wither out. The heritage value of Tawlhlohpuan extends beyond its aesthetic appeal. Deeply intertwined with the cultural identity of the Mizo community, it is a reflection of their customs, beliefs and historical narratives. The craft of Tawlhlohpuan weaving has been passed down through generations, preserving ancient techniques and motifs. Its historical significance, thus, lies in its continuity, serving as a link between the past and the present.
